Stuttgart for wine lovers: A visit to Weinhandlung Kreis

Whenever I visit a city and have a bit of time to spare, I make a point of seeking out the best local wine shop. In Stuttgart, for me, that’s unquestionably: Weinhandlung Kreis.

Admittedly, it’s a little tucked away – hidden in a courtyard at Böheimstraße 43, in the Heslach district, just south of the city centre. But those who find their way there are rewarded: the vinotheque is housed in a beautifully preserved brick building with industrial charm – a true architectural gem.

Inside, you’re greeted by a spacious warehouse with a functional, almost minimalist feel. Instead of shelves or slick displays, the wines are simply and clearly laid out on Euro pallets. No frills, no marketing backdrop – the wine takes centre stage, as it should.

The owner and namesake is Bernd Kreis, former head sommelier at the renowned restaurant Wielandshöhe. His expertise has received numerous accolades, including “Sommelier of the Year” (Falstaff, 2019). His deep knowledge is clearly reflected in the range: characterful wines with personality, carefully selected – with a particular focus on small, artisanal producers.

The selection is impressively curated: you’ll find cult producers such as Domaine Jamet, Alice et Olivier De Moor, Roses de Jeanne / Cédric Bouchard, Bernhard Huber and Domaine Marcel Lapierre. Alongside top international names, there’s a strong emphasis on wines from Württemberg – uncompromising, sustainable, and authentic. One could justifiably say: this is all about wines with soul – where origin and ethos matter more than flashy labels.

But Bernd Kreis isn’t just a wine merchant – he’s also a winemaker. Together with his son Kilian, he cultivates a tiny 0.25-hectare vineyard in Stuttgart-Degerloch. The wines – such as “rou-rou-rouge” (Cabernet Franc) and “bla-bla-blanc” (Sauvignon Blanc) – are grown organically, though uncertified, and vinified at Weingut Alldinger.

A tip for anyone who enjoys a good walk alongside great wine: combine your visit to Weinhandlung Kreis with a – admittedly rather steep – hike through the surrounding Stuttgart vineyards. The Schimmelhüttenweg (starting behind the Marienhospital) leads you directly uphill towards Degerloch. Along the way, you’ll pass the parcels of the Degerlocher Scharrenberg site – one of the smallest single vineyard locations in Württemberg, with slopes reaching up to 30%. A hidden wine treasure perched above the rooftops of the city.

As I still had that little hike ahead of me, I limited myself to buying just one bottle – no easy feat given the choice. In the end, I opted for the 2023 Le Vendangeur Masqué Chablis – a project by Alice De Moor that immediately won me over. A stripped-back, terroir-driven style with no oak to distract – just purity, drive, and a finely etched saline minerality. Linear, cool, almost ascetic in its precision – a Chablis for purists, with real energy and finesse.

Visiting Weinhandlung Kreis in Stuttgart was a thoroughly rewarding experience. An inspiring atmosphere, genuine expertise, and a selection that leaves you wanting more. I didn’t just leave with a special bottle of wine – I also got some fantastic tips on where to eat and drink well in Stuttgart.

After my visit, Shona Hwang (branch manager at Weinhandlung Kreis) kindly took the time to answer my questions. The following is a translation of her statement, which was originally in German:

What do people in Stuttgart particularly enjoy drinking? Are there any regional preferences you’ve noticed?

Of course, I can only speak from the perspective of what we sell to our customers. In general, people in Stuttgart enjoy variety and are open to wines from many different countries.
Grape varieties that are particularly popular here include Riesling, Weißburgunder (Pinot Blanc), and Sauvignon Blanc.
Wines from Weingut Lassak are especially in demand at the moment – I get countless enquiries about when their wines will be available again.
Our regional specialities are definitely Lemberger and Trollinger. I particularly recommend Lemberger, especially when it comes to local quality. I personally see Lemberger as a greatly underestimated grape variety from Württemberg, and I hope it will gain more recognition in the future.
Trollinger may be a light wine, but it’s perfect on hot days – best served slightly chilled.

Which three wines from your range would you personally recommend – whether classics or insider tips?

Three recommendations are hardly enough! But if I had to choose, I’d suggest one of the Portuguese wines – particularly those from Monte Xisto in the Douro Valley. The Orbita is especially good, but Oriente and Monte Xisto Douro are also excellent.
I’m also a big fan of Cabernet Franc. Since we have many of them in our range, I’d especially recommend the Carmenet from Cosse Maisonneuve – a very elegant, complex Cabernet Franc from southwest France.
And I love the white wines from Domaine Closiers – like the Saumur Blanc Les Bournayes and the Chinon Chenin Blanc (produced by Domaine Teyras de Grandval, but under the Domaine Closiers label). These wines are expressive, complex, balanced and mineral – an absolute must-try!

Is there a winery you currently see as an up-and-coming “rising star”? And what makes it special?

That’s a fascinating question. Many of our wines are carefully selected by Mr. Kreis himself, as he has a great eye for potential in wineries. Around 90% of our range comes from direct imports.
One example is Roses de Jeanne, a small Champagne house that has become almost impossible to get.
A few years ago, it was still relatively available, but now demand is so high that we only sell it by pre-order.
The same applies to wineries like Lassak, Clos Rougeard, De Moor and others.