Fine Dining in Berlin-Neukölln: A Culinary Expedition at Hallmann & Klee

In the heart of Berlin-Neukölln, nestled on a charming square surrounded by small bars, restaurants and a vibrant outdoor meeting spot, you’ll find the stylishly minimalist Hallmann & Klee. With its Nordic-inspired interior and serene atmosphere, the restaurant radiates a calm elegance from the moment you arrive – relaxed, welcoming and quietly refined.

The greeting is warm, the service attentive yet discreet. You feel at ease straight away. The menu sounded promising, the wine pairing intriguing. As an extra treat, we ordered the potatoes with whey and lovage – a dish that turned out to be an unexpected emotional high point.

Subtle Cuisine with Goosebump Moments

The tasting menu was outstanding throughout, frequently striking a deeply moving chord. Sarah Hallmann and her team have a rare talent for turning seemingly simple ingredients into profound flavour experiences. Her culinary signature is precise, bold and deeply sensitive.
The potatoes with lovage and whey – aptly described by Sarah as “a hug” – delivered exactly that: warmth, comfort, a hint of home. A dish that etches itself into memory and stands as a symbol for many of the evening’s other remarkable courses.
What’s served here is more than ambitious cuisine. It’s a sensory and emotional journey that both moves and inspires.

Wine Pairing with Depth and Discovery

Patricia Lee’s wine pairing was spot-on – thoughtfully curated, with surprising discoveries and daring combinations. A particular highlight was the 2019 Zion Riesling from Matthias Warnung (Kamptal), which had spent four years maturing under flor yeast in wooden barrels. This extended ageing brought an oxidative, nutty complexity that, tasted blind, could easily be mistaken for something from the Jura.
With its precise acidity and layered depth, the Zion accompanied a composition of scallop, carrot and yuzu to stunning effect – a harmonious, almost dance-like interplay.

Samtrot – Underestimated but Impressive

Another standout was a Samtrot from Wengerter Und – a grape variety I had barely noticed before. But here, taken seriously and vinified with drastically reduced yields, it revealed itself as a true revelation: juicy, precise, and full of nuance. A red-fruit extravaganza somewhere between Burgundy and Beaujolais Cru.
Paired with lamb and Roscoff onions – the latter sautéed with finely chopped smoked eel – this dish was powerful, deep, and simply brutally good.

More than Wine – Creative Beverage Pairings

Alongside the wines, other imaginative drinks played their part. Particularly memorable: a vermouth (“Merwut”) from Landau, served with tonic water to accompany the signature dish of potato, whey and lovage. A surprising yet beautifully balanced pairing, underlining the thoughtful diversity of the beverage selections.

An Evening to Remember

What made this evening truly special was not just the technical finesse of the kitchen and service, but the holistic experience: the atmosphere, the attention to detail, and the way flavour, emotion and personality were interwoven throughout.
Hallmann & Klee is far more than just a fine-dining restaurant. It’s a place where food resonates – quietly, yet powerfully. For those in Berlin in search of an extraordinary culinary experience with outstanding wine pairing, this is a destination that won’t disappoint.

Further Information: Hallmann & Klee – Böhmische Straße 13, 12055 Berlin