Cool Climate with Character: 2023 Lemberger ‘von roter Kerf’ by Wengerter Und

For those delving deeper into wine styles – whether through WSET studies or out of sheer curiosity – it becomes clear that the most intriguing wines aren’t necessarily the loudest. It’s often about balance, texture, and a clear sense of origin. That’s exactly what I found when I first encountered a wine from Wengerter Und at the Berlin restaurant Hallmann & Klee. My curiosity was piqued – and after tasting the 2023 Lemberger von roter Kerf, I was convinced: this is a wine shaped by cool-climate elegance, precision of fruit, and subtle structure. When a wine combines pepper spice, smokiness, and tension this well, it’s not far-fetched to draw stylistic comparisons to the Northern Rhône – even if this is a humble Swabian Landwein clocking in at just 11% ABV.

The vineyard site “Roter Kerf” is rich in iron-laden marl, contributing to the wine’s mineral backbone. The winemaking is minimal intervention: whole-bunch fermentation for 14 days, aged in used Burgundy barrels, and bottled unfiltered. Ambitious? Certainly. But also authentic.

What impressed me most is the modest alcohol level of only 11%, without sacrificing typicity. This is unmistakably Lemberger – just with a lighter hand, more finesse, and a cooler expression. Not a powerhouse, but a quietly confident wine.

WSET Level 3 Tasting Note
Wine: 2023 Wengerter Und – Lemberger von roter Kerf
Origin: Swabian Landwein, Germany
Price: 25 Euro
Where to buy: Monkey’s Wineboutique
Tasting date: 09.08.2025

Appearance:
– Intensity: Deep
– Colour: Purple

Nose:
– Condition: Clean
– Intensity: Medium (+)
– Aroma characteristics: Primary: Red and black cherry, blackcurrant, blackberry, blueberry, cranberry, red bell pepper, black pepper, allspice, juniper, liquorice; Secondary: Smoke, coffee; Tertiary: Leather, forest floor
– Development: Developing

Palate:
– Sweetness: Dry
– Acidity: Medium
– Tannin: Medium
– Alcohol: Medium
– Body: Medium
– Flavour intensity: Medium (+)
– Flavour characteristics: Primary: Red and black cherry, blackcurrant, blackberry, blueberry, cranberry, red bell pepper, black pepper, allspice, juniper, liquorice; Secondary: Smoke, coffee; Tertiary: Leather, forest floor
– Finish: Medium (+)

Conclusion:
– Quality level: Very good
– Readiness for drinking: Can drink now, but has potential for further ageing

Final thoughts:
This Lemberger proves that German red wines don’t need to rely on power or extraction to make a statement. With his Wengerter Und project, Nicholas Pratt crafts a cool, restrained style that is both delicate and expressive. For those seeking freshness with depth, this wine is a compelling example of site-driven, modern Lemberger – and a rewarding discovery for anyone on the WSET journey.